Destination reviews

Our reservation consultants travel extensively to our holiday destinations throughout the year. They embark on regular visits to not only our most popular destinations such as Venice and Paris but also to our lesser visited cities and rural hideaways to ensure we have a comprehensive and detailed product knowledge. 

These reviews are an opportunity for our reservations team to share the knowledge and experiences they have gained through their travels and hopefully offer a few tips along the way.

A Winter Short Break to Madrid


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05/12/2009

I wanted to escape the cold, wet weather in the UK, so I decided to treat myself to a pre-Christmas holiday to Madrid. I have been to Madrid twice before and have loved it both times but never have I been in winter, I would normally travel in the summer.  

I flew with British Airways from Heathrow, their new dedicated Terminal Five. It was the first time I had used Terminal Five and I have to say I was impressed with every element – it was a very smooth transition from the check-in desk to boarding the aircraft. My flight was an early afternoon departure so I decided take lunch before boarding the plane, there is a wide choice of restaurants inside the terminal. I was travelling in Economy and had a very comfortable flight with the help of the charming British Airways cabin crew (they may be well paid – but they do offer great service!). The flight duration from Heathrow is just 2 hrs 15 mins, so by the time you have read your paper you are there.  

At Madrid Barajas Airport, it was a warm 19 degrees which was a great deal warmer than London.  The Kirker driver was there to greet us with a broad smile and he was holding a sign emblazoned with the handsome Kirker logo (my unbiased view, of course!) We were taken in a stylish new Mercedes for the journey to the hotel (just 20 minutes) very comfortable and effortless – the perfect start to the holiday, and a good way to impress my companion!  

Upon arriving at the Hotel Cason Del Tormes, I had a lovely friendly welcome from the doorman who helped with me with my luggage...as usual; I had greatly over packed so the helping hand on arrival was most welcome. The Cason Del Tormes is a 3 star in a great location just off the Plaza de Espana. It's a family run hotel with only 63 bedrooms and although there are more expensive hotels the rooms are comfortable, and the buffet breakfast, served every morning in the Los Madroños room, has a good selection of pastry’s to tempt you with your coffee in the morning.  

Immediately after unpacking, I headed down the Gran Via to the Puerta del Sol for a stroll.  It has been four years since my last visit and I wanted to see what’s new, and have a quick check on one or two of the Kirker Tapas bars.  December was a great time to visit Madrid, it is quieter in the winter, so you can get around the shops and the attractions with ease. If you are planning to visit the Prado or Thyssen museums using the complimentary Kirker Cultura card, I would suggest visiting earlier than I did: shortly after breakfast is best as the queues after 11am are huge. I am advising you as I experienced the long queue myself.  

I would also recommend a visit to the Real Jardin Botanico, which are the botanical gardens designed by architect Juan de Villanueva. It is a wonderful place to take a relaxing afternoon stroll.   There is a wide choice of restaurants in the Kirker Guide Notes, many are located near the hotel. I dined at the ‘Botin’ restaurant which is a characterful restaurant just to the side of the Plaza Mayor. The restaurant dates back to 1725 and it's the world’s oldest restaurant according to the Guinness book of records.  I had the fish and can highly recommend the grilled Sole.    

Overall I had a thoroughly enjoyable weekend in Madrid the weather was good, the hotel staff were all very friendly and it was a pleasure to fly with British Airways. The only down side to my holiday to Madrid was the damage to my credit card.... but hey you only live once.


Berlin


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19/07/2010

One thing I would say after visiting Berlin is that 2 days is not long enough! Berlin has so much to offer that to try and fit it all in over such a short space of time is to do it an injustice. However, I wasn’t complaining as this was a work trip after all so a tight schedule had to be adhered to.  

As Concierge, my main duty was to experience Berlin for its cultural aspects and so I wanted to fit in as many of the city’s sights as possible. A private guide for a half day is the best way to see any city and this would always be recommended. 

Getting around Berlin is very easy. The main central area can easily be navigated by foot. The city’s sprawling but very manageable U-Bahn (underground) and S-Bahn (overland) train system is one of the best in Europe; very cheap and extremely reliable.    

At the western end of the Alexanderplatz, a bustling square with the imposing Fernsehturm Television Tower, is the DDR Museum, a fascinating insight in to life behind the Berlin Wall in East Berlin. The museum is certainly worth a visit, it was very busy when I was there and most people seemed to be crowding around the old Trabant car taking it in turns to try and start the engine. The replica apartment was most interesting, showing various household items from everyday life under Communism and pieces of recording equipment used by the Stasi to keep tabs on their fellow countrymen. The museum does get busy so it worth getting there early.  

Just across the River Spree from here is the Museuminsel (Museum Island), a collection of five excellent, internationally renowned museums. I chose to visit two of the museums although it is possible to buy a combined ticket allowing visitors to experience all five. The Alte Nationalgalerie, which houses mainly 19th Century works of art including Impressionist pieces from Monet. The Neues Museum, which was destroyed during the Second World War, was re-opened in 2009 after the rebuild was overseen by English architect David Chipperfield. The museum houses many important ancient Egyptian and Greek artefacts as well pieces from the Stone Age and pre historic eras. You could easily spend two days visiting the excellent museums of the Museuminsel.  

Continuing on down the Unter den Linden I stopped at the Berlin Staatsoper, hoping to have a peek in to the auditorium. However, I was advised this would not be possible as renovations to the auditorium were under way. The Staatsoper is having to relocate to the Schiller Theatre in the West for three years while the works take place.  

Berlin is a major hub for opera and classical music. There are three opera houses and also the Berlin Philharmonie Hall and Konzertehaus as well as many other smaller venues. As Concierge I often book tickets for clients at all of these venues so it was worthwhile trying to see them all.  

The Komische Oper just round the corner from the Staatsoper specialises in German language productions of operas and operettas. I was able to go in to this modest but elegant auditorium and what struck me was the intimacy of it. An excellent option if there are no other performances taking place at the Staatsoper or Deutsche Oper and tickets are considerably cheaper.  

Near the Komische Oper is the Gendarmenmarkt square where rehearsals were taking place for one of the Summer’s open air concerts in the square. The concerts take place throughout the summer every year and if you don't happen to have a ticket there is a section at the back which allows standing for free. It is a lovely setting and recommended is a pre or post concert meal at the Refugium restaurant on the square, with tables outside.  

From here I headed down Friedrichstraße towards Checkpoint Charlie, the most famous border crossing between West and East Berlin which remains to serve as a reminder of the Cold War and the fascinating recent history of Berlin. The actual sight of Checkpoint Charlie has inevitably become a tourist hotspot with people clamouring for photos with actors dressed in East German and American army uniform. However, the Mauermuseum Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie really is a great museum to learn about the history and the struggles of regular Germans, who found themselves trapped behind the wall. The museum gives detailed accounts of successful and failed attempts to escape in to West Berlin. They have photos of people desperately jumping from windows or making other elaborate attempts to escape. I was only 8 when the Berlin Wall came down but being in Berlin and seeing the exhibition really brought home to me how recently all of these events took place and how they must still be in the minds of most Berliners.  

Walking south from Checkpoint Charlie I then visited the Judisches Museum (Jewish Museum), a somewhat sobering museum given the turbulent and horrific times the Jews experienced under Nazi rule. The museum houses the Holocaust Tower, a memorial to those who lost their lives and is a quiet, concrete, triangular shaped room which is perfect for contemplation after the exhibition.  

That evening we were all tired so we settled for a quick bite to eat and a couple of drinks in Kreuzberg, the lively district of Berlin where local artists, trend setters and a large Turkish Community are based.  

The following day was extremely hot. Berlin in the summer can get very hot and we heard people mentioning figures of 36 or 38 degrees and it certainly felt that way.  

I spent the first part of the day visiting the sights in the western part of Berlin. The Deutsche Oper, with its impressive wood panelled auditorium and excellent acoustics was my starting point; an impressive building and an opera house that has a constant flow of good productions throughout the season.  

Taking the U-Bahn to the Potsdamer Platz station, I went to the Philharmonie Concert Hall where the Berlin Philharmonic, currently conducted by Sir Simon Rattle, perform on a regular basis. The Chinese hat shaped building is fascinating and has a huge foyer with an exhibition of photos from past concerts. If there are no concerts taking place it is possible to join a guided tour on certain days.  

Just next to the Concert Hall is the Tiergarten Park; a nice place to come to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and many Berliners were enjoying their picnics as I walked through the park towards Berlin’s most famous landmark, the Brandenburg Gate. The area around the gate is swarming with tourists taking photos and trying to imagine where the Wall once stood. It is difficult not to think about what it would have been like to be there on that night in 1989 when thousands of East and West Germans were reunited.  

The afternoon was spent with my colleagues Marcus and Natalie visiting the city of Potsdam. The city can be reached easily on the S-Bahn and takes about 40 minutes from Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof station. Alternatively, people can take a private tour with a car, driver and guide. As the home of the Prussian Kings until the early 20th Century Potsdam is Germany’s largest Unesco World Heritage Site. There are lots of palaces to visit and a whole day could easily be spent there exploring all the magnificent buildings. We were able to visit two of the most famous palaces. Firstly, the Sansoucci, which is the former summer palace of Frederick the Great and is often referred to as Germany’s Versailles. It is very impressive, if somewhat smaller that Versailles and the gardens are great place to visit in the summer. The Cecilienhof Palace, in contrast is made up of brick and oak timber frame buildings around a large courtyard and is reminiscent of a large English farmhouse. The Cecilienhof is probably most famous for the Potsdam Conference that took place in 1945 involving the leaders of the three victorious forces of the Second World War and was where they decided how to punish the defeated Nazi Germany. After sightseeing at Potsdam we stopped at the Movenpick Restaurant, a great place to stop and enjoy a drink or an ice cream with its lovely outdoor terrace situated amongst the trees near the Sansoucci Palace.  

We took the train back to Berlin for our final evening. Berlin has so much to offer in the evening from opera, classical concerts, amazing restaurants, late night art galleries, and the bars in Berlin’s more “liberal” districts of Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain. After a long day of sightseeing we decided to choose one of the recommended restaurants in the Kirker Guide Notes to Berlin. The Restaurant Diekmann was excellent, fantastic German food with a modern twist and very affordable. Berlin is excellent value for money when dining out. The restaurant is in quite an exclusive area to the West of the city and if it was in London it would probably have been double the price. A lovely, relaxed 3 course meal and a couple of bottles of wine was a great way to end our stay in Berlin.    


Berlin, Dresden & Prague


View destination review

07/10/2010

My first trip with Kirker started from Heathrow’s recently finished Terminal 5. With its initial problems firmly behind it, the airport provides a comfortable pre-departure experience, making a welcome addition to the journey. Our flight to Berlin left promptly and in just over 2 hours we were touching down at the comparatively more basic Tegel airport. With the minimum of fuss we were through customs and collected our baggage in record time. The contrasts of technology and architecture of Heathrow’s Terminal 5 and Tegel Airports infrastructure are noticeable, but the experiences are equally efficient.  

Our first stop was the Leonardo Hotel Royal, Kirkers newest addition to our growing portfolio in East Berlin. First impressions of the Leonardo Royal don’t disappoint, located in the heart of Mitte and just a 15 minute walk to the Alexanderplatz and the other numerous nearby sights, the hotel is perfectly positioned to access Berlin's numerous attractions, yet without all the hustle and bustle on your doorstep. The hotel itself is contemporary yet remains elegant with beautiful decor which complements its authentic surrounding. The staff too are immediately welcoming and add to the relaxed vibe found throughout the Leonardo Royal.  

East Berlin is a truly great city, its buzzing atmosphere, created by the combination of the city’s turbulent past and the more recent investment draws more and more people and visitors start to uncover what Berlin has to offer. Highlights include the Museum Island, Unter dan Linden, Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate and of course trying the famous Currywurst (not to be missed)! Having a coffee on the Veuve Cliquet roof terrace at the Hotel De Rome was also a highlight with the great views over historical centre.  

The De Rome Hotel was one of my favourite hotels in East Berlin. The De Rome exudes grandeur and elegance in a prime area of East Berlin . Its location on the old bank, close to the designer boutiques and Berlin’s famed Christmas Market cannot be matched. If you are looking for a short and indulgent break in East Berlin, the De Rome would take some beating for both luxury and its surroundings.  

From East Berlin to West, a journey full of historical references brought us to the Schlosshotel Im Grunewald, a new addition to Kirker. The Schloss started life as a private home peacefully tucked away outside of West Berlin. Because of its conversion the Schloss maintains a homely and inviting atmosphere with the added comforts and service of a top class hotel. The lush garden helps guests to truly relax and is one of many advantages of its more remote position. The Schloss Hotel is a must for those looking to completely unwind but still be within reach of Berlin’s bustling centre. West Berlin is reachable via the metro within 30 minutes and this is where you will find more great hotels, restaurants and shopping. West Berlin is a shopper’s paradise whether you are looking for fashion, antiques, furniture or home accessories. It’s a truly cosmopolitan city and deserves its renowned high-class status. 

Our next stop was Dresden. We arrived by train; the journey only taking two and a half hours and on arrival our lovely Kirker transfers were waiting to help us find our way! My expectations of Dresden were immediately surpassed on first impressions. Dresden has a vast amount to offer to its visitors and our 2 day stay was the perfect amount of time for our busy schedule. We stayed at the Bülow Palais which is the sister property of the Relais & Chateaux Bülow Residenz, both in a baroque style with the Palais being larger, modern and fresh while the Residenz maintains a more traditional personal style. The hotels location is great being just a 10 minute walk to the main attractions on quaint cobbled streets, and a meal at their Michelin starred ‘Caroussel’ restaurant is not to be missed.  

Dresden truly surprised me, vast amounts of cultural offerings, museums and churches make for an alternative city break. To experience true German tradition we went for dinner at the Brauhaus Am Waldschlößchen. Serving a traditional fayre, it was a great way to finish our stay.  

We then made our way further south to Prague. Taking just over 2 hours by train, encompassing fantastic views of Southern Germany, we arrived at the Casa Marcello, met by welcoming staff who sat us down to a lovely lunch in the relaxing summer courtyard. Situated in the Old Town on a quiet road just a 3 minute walk to the centre, this hotel offers a simple yet charming style and atmosphere. In contrast we stayed at the Four Seasons Prague which has just finished room refurbishments. Keeping the traditional Four Season ambience and glamour, but now with a contemporary touch. …… On a seemingly minor note, don’t miss the Eggs Benedict!  

Prague is split into two segments, with subtle but noticeable contrasts between the two sides. The Old Town on the one hand is a lively tourist hotspot with historical monuments, restaurants, bars, tourist attractions and shopping to keep almost any traveller entertained. A stroll over Charles Bridge however, brings you to Mala Strana, the quieter and less ‘touristy’ side of Prague. The Mandarin Oriental finds itself situated in Mala Strana in a historical Monastery. The Mandarin Oriental is one of our more luxurious hotels and offers levels of opulence rarely found in any city. Its spa is a major attraction and adds to an already unforgettable stay.  

The combination of these three fun, interesting and educational destinations is a perfect break away, summer or winter! Two or three nights at each are perfect to see the cities’ wonderful sights, leaving you feeling fulfilled and revitalised yet eager to see more…


Half-term in Oman


View destination review

03/11/2009

Where to go in October half-term to guarantee wall-to-wall sunshine and a daily temperature of at least 30°C?

Europe just wasn’t going to tick those two ‘oh so important’ boxes so we looked at Oman. For two reasons really, firstly we feature it in our new North Africa and Middle East brochure and secondly, the Shangri La had been recommended by several friends, all with young kids.

We flew out Oman Air, the country’s national carrier and only direct airline to Muscat. They were good, operating Airbus A330’s. Overnight flight out and a day flight back, 7 hours flying time. Service excellent, and food perfectly edible. Left London in the rain and arrived in Muscat in glorious unadulterated sunshine, there’s something really spoiling and very decadent about going abroad to the sun in our winter.

We stayed at the 4 star, family friendly Al Waha. The resort also has a 5 star hotel – Al Bandar and a 6 star hotel – Al Husn. It was perfect. Built around a large free-form swimming pool with ample sun loungers bordering it – ideal for relaxing while keeping a close eye on children who are just finding their ‘water wings’. Al Bandar leant itself to families with older and more independent kids (Max, our son is 5) who can swim without supervision as the sun bathing was away from the pools overlooking the sea. Al Husn was a totally different ballgame, kids are not allowed here and only guests of the hotel can enjoy the pool, beach and gardens. Very discreet. That said, you can dine in all the restaurants of all three properties.

Talking of food, the restaurants were all very varied and all excellent. You can chose from open buffets, pool bars for casual lunches, a lovely fish restaurant with breathtaking ocean views, an Italian, a Moroccan and a fine dining. We were there for a week and ate in a different restaurant every night. Our room was on the ground floor overlooking the sea, it was comfortable and spacious enough for an extra bed for Max. The service was superb throughout.

Max loved it, it was half term and he had an absolute ball playing with his newly-made friends. My wife read 5 books and me, just the one – unheard of for me normally! A sign of how much we were able to kick back and relax and not worry about Max. Almost forgot to mention the lazy river that connected Al Waha to Al Bandar – great fun.

We did not use the spa or leave the hotel but we met people who ‘spa’d’ and raved about it. Others also ‘hit’ the souk and the fish market and visited the Grand Mosque. There is also great diving, snorkelling, watersports and a dolphin watching excursion. Next time, we’ll go for longer and try all of these out.


Israel


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20/03/2009

Israel was promised in Jewish tradition as a land so abundant and welcoming it flowed with milk and honey. The full Israeli breakfast that greeted us from our overnight flight was a picture of plenty with bread, cheese, fish and fruit stretching as far as the eye could see, all testament to the sun which joined us on the terrace outside, yawning its way into the day, wiping away the last few clouds from its eyes, as were we.  

Saving the buzz of Tel Aviv for a later date, we made a beeline for neighbouring Jaffa. Despite its name, the sleepy streets are home to just one orange tree and it is suspended from the roofs of a few of the local artisans’ workshops in a concrete bowl. The panoramic view of Tel Aviv’s high-rise coastline from the entrance to Jaffa was an impressive vista, showing how a century’s development in the young country has made 2000 years of difference.  

Driving – or rather being driven – north, we stopped at the well-preserved Roman ruins of Caesarea, where the restored theatre was staging rehearsals for an elaborate balletic performance. By our next stop above the Bai’a Gardens in the port town of Haifa our friend the sun was so low it was performing its own dance on the Med between the shore and the ancient harbour of Akko, on the hazy horizon. There’s no better way to cover the distance between cities than by air-conditioned private transfer with a knowledgeable English-speaking driver/guide. The guides are happy to suggest points of interest along the way or these can be arranged in advance when booking your holiday.  

Our destination for the day was the Sea of Galilee, home of many a biblical episode and now the areas premier wine-growing region. Our base at the excellent Scots Hotel in Tiberias allowed us to unwind and learn a bit more about both. Well rested and after a stroll through the beautiful gardens to the Scots’ pool, we took a short boat trip across the Galilee to Capernaeum and Tabgha with their relics and shrines. Despite being called a sea, the Galilee is about the size of the average Scottish loch and makes for a gentle journey even for those lacking seafaring legs, like myself.  

The drive South to Jerusalem took in Nazareth and a quick visit to the Church of the Annunciation. Bethlehem and its Church of the Nativity is also a possible stop en route that we took the following day. Both these beautiful monuments are steeped in history but also in pilgrims from all corners of the world. Bypassing the ancient capital briefly, we took to the desert as far as the lowest point in the world, the Dead Sea. Floating here is a high point of any itinerary. The salty waters literally sweep you off your feet and have you floating away blissfully – until some gets in your eyes or mouth and shocks you back to reality. After a float and a falafel refuelling stop, we headed up to the top of Masada, by a quick and efficient cable car, rather than the rocky route taken by the local ibex and some intrepid travellers. The remains of the stronghold built there by King Herod and then held by the local rebels who overthrew him until they were sieged by the invading Roman army are well preserved and give a clear feel for the life of the isolated community on top of the mountain.    

Our first full view of old Jerusalem came from our rooms and the swimming pool at the Mount Zion hotel. Decorated inside with an eclectic yet comfortable array of North African and Middle Eastern furniture the Mount Zion is a worthy alternative to the world famous King David hotel, both offering stunning views in a historic setting.  

Ambling through the winding, undulating streets of Jerusalem’s old city we got a real taste of the way life has been for thousands of years. Exploring the souks we frequently discovered churches, synagogues and mosques – the juxtaposition of the city’s main religions, mixing now as well as ever. Our excellent guide, Naftali, was able to take us on various routes to better understand the different eras and cultures, taking in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Al-Aqsa mosque and the Western Wall.  

Tel Aviv has it all – we strolled the wide Bauhaus boulevards and the sandy beaches in the Mediterranean paradise which doubles up as one of the region’s financial powerhouses and one of its most liberal cities. The city runs 24 hours a day, the seafront bars alternating with the central cafes and restaurants to fuel locals and tourists. We stayed at the Sheraton, which offers traditional luxury with all the modern trappings of a top hotel in a city where cutting-edge is de rigeur. Seeing the sun set over the beach from our ample balconies was the highlight. We also explored Tel Aviv’s fine array of boutique hotels to fit all budgets.  

On the early morning drive to Ben Gurion airport we passed revellers returning home on foot at the same time as commuters were hitting the motorways. We were met from our car by an airport assistant who accompanied us through the numerous passport and baggage checks, ably translating where necessary, smoothing our departure and wishing us a speedy return.


Jordan


View destination review

30/01/2010

Day 1

A little over an hour after leaving the office, we were relaxing in the brand new lounges at Heathrow’s Terminal 3 and looking forward with excitement to the journey ahead. The comfortable afternoon flight with Royal Jordanian gave us some time to read up on the incredible history of Jordan, from ancient merchant cities to the politics of the 20th Century, and further whet our appetite for a Middle-Eastern adventure. Within twenty minutes of landing in the capital Amman, we had visas stamped in our passports, some local currency in our pockets and were sitting in our air-conditioned transfer vehicle and whizzing though the bright city streets to the Geneva Hotel in cosmopolitan West Amman.  

Day 2

After a hearty breakfast, our first trip was to see the old Citadel in the historic East Amman. The museum on top of the Citadel houses fragments of the Dead Sea scrolls, and is surrounded by visible fragments of the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad Dynasty palaces that have stood on the site. Carved into the side of the hill opposite the Citadel, is the very well-preserved Roman theatre, still host to summer concerts.  

We then drove on, with our excellent local guide feeding us snippets of history, to the most impressive reminder of the area’s Roman past: Jerash. This was the perfect opportunity to play Indiana Jones amongst the colonnaded streets and piazzas and you could easily picture the city buzzing with international traders and soldiers 2000 years ago – they even stage chariot races in the restored Hippodrome! After all this exertion we were more than ready for a meze lunch at the local restaurant just outside the site.  

Back in Amman there was enough time for a quick change before heading out to the bustling Shmeisani district for dinner at the trendy Blue Fig restaurant with some British ex-patriots who we grilled for local knowledge over a local speciality; the delicious Mount Nebo red wine.  

Day 3

The next day was time to see some of the city’s hotels, before the drive of about one hour down to the Dead Sea. We watched as our water bottles were squeezed by the air pressure (whilst Amman is fairly elevated, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth at 400m below sea level). Before long we pulled up at the impressive Kempinski Ishtar resort (named after the Babylonian sun god) which stretches down to the edge of the Dead Sea itself.  

We enjoyed a float in the famous mineral-rich waters, and had a look around the resort, with the biggest spa in the Middle-East (some guests come for weeks just to enjoy the healing properties of the waters and the treatments they offer using Dead Sea minerals and mud!). By late evening it was time to relax with dinner at the hotels Italian restaurant, overlooking the Dead Sea and a spectacular sunset over Israel. As the sun vanished, the faint lights of Jerusalem became just visible in the distance.  

Day 4

An early start needed today to set off on our journey to Petra. Our guide and driver met us after an al fresco breakfast (not something you have every day in January!) and we drove the three hours through the desert to the town of Wadi Musa; the gateway to Petra.   As we strolled down into the dramatic Siq (canyon) which enters the ancient site, our guide was able to point out the carved tombs and water channels built into the soft sandstone. The red, orange and brown colours or the different rock strata morph and change as the sun moves through the sky, then after about half an hour, we catch a glimpse of the Treasury. The Siq opens up to reveal the huge carved facade of this former tomb, and it really surpassed my wildest expectations in terms of scale and impact.  

The real surprise however, came when we rounded the corner and discovered that Petra is far more than just the postcard view of the Treasury; the site was a huge trading city under the ancient Nabateans and then the Romans, and even the small proportion currently excavated would provide several days worth of exploring! We passed the Nabatean tombs and temples, and the Roman theatre and colonnaded street, before deciding to make an expedition up to the Monastery; a steep, but spectacular forty minute climb up from the rest of the site. At the top, we had a breathtaking panorama of the whole area as well as the awesome Monastery itself (again, this is a misnomer and it was almost certainly an important tomb rather than a monastery).  

The day was rounded off with a meal of local dishes in one of the simple restaurants in Wadi Musa before a welcome rest at our hotel the Petra Panorama, overlooking Petra itself.  

Day 5

This morning we headed straight out along the highway into the rolling desert to the south of Petra, to the protected area of Wadi Rum, where we took a Jeep safari in the desert. After the comfortable air-conditioned vehicle we were used to, it was a shock to clamber into a Jeep for a very bumpy ride over the sand dunes! The rough ride was well worth it when we saw the monolithic rock formations surrounding us and all signs of civilisation disappear. Bedouin tents are the only signs of habitation out here and it really looks like it would have done to T. E. Lawrence as he camped out with his Arab army preparing to march on Aqaba. 

In the afternoon, we headed on to Aqaba ourselves, a quick hour’s drive rather than the day’s march that Lawrence’s army would have endured. We arrived at the sparkling white Kempinski hotel in time to enjoy the 25C weather and have a swim in the crystal clear Red Sea. In the evening we wandered out into town, (and there really is a proper town here unlike many Red Sea resorts) to do some last minute shopping and had a fantastic dinner at the Royal Yacht Club, where they offer everything from Italian antipasti to freshly made sushi!  

Day 6

We had a bright and early start to catch our short flight from Aqaba back to Amman, flying over all the places we’d visited during the week, the Dead Sea in particular is clearly visible from the air. The change in Amman is smooth and easy and there was plenty of time to catch up with a quick nap en route back to Heathrow where we arrived home mid-afternoon, to the cold and wet of London in January…


Madrid and Barcelona


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20/03/2009

I always count myself very lucky that as part of my job, I ‘have’ to go to Spain a few times a year to visit all our hotels. One of my last trips was to visit the cities of Madrid and Barcelona, two wonderful cities but both very different….  

I flew to Barcelona on Sunday evening, getting to my hotel at around 11pm. This is normally well past my bedtime but, being Spain, the city was still busy and so I did (for the purposes of research of course) venture out for a nightcap.  

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday morning were spent visiting our hotels. It is always great to see our hoteliers personally, some of which have now become firm friends. Without wishing to get into all the politics of Spain/Catalonia; what you cannot fail to notice is the cosmopolitan edge to the city, perhaps more European than Spanish with an interesting mix of so many different nationalities.  

Of course, one of the main advantages that Barcelona has over many other cities is its coastal location. Where else can you spend the morning visiting the delights of Gaudi, Dali and the like and the afternoon on a wonderful sandy beach?  

Wednesday evening I needed to get to Madrid and had reserved a seat on the AVE high speed train service. Spanish rail is becoming one of the most envied rail service in Europe boasting fast links and an extremely comfortable service. I was lucky enough to travel as a Kirker client would – in preferente class. This provided me with use of a lounge at the station, a comfortable large seat (with power point for my laptop to catch up on some paperwork) and a hot meal – not to mention the liquor trolley afterwards!  

Less than 3 hours later, I arrived into a busy Madrid Atocha station and was met by one of our drivers and taken to the hotel – bypassing the long queue for a taxi! Madrid has always been one of my favourite cities; nightlife and bar culture at its best.  Although I have two full days of hotel visits I do have a little time to be a tourist. Whilst I have almost no knowledge of art (actually make that no knowledge of art) I do love to have a wander around a museum or two and there is no better place than Madrid to do it. The delights of the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen are well known but my favourite has to be the Sorolla museum, housed in what was his home and studio.  

Friday afternoon I flew back home after a long, busy but hugely enjoyable week. All that is left for me to do is complete piles of contracts and arrange training sessions for the Kirker sales team!


Morocco


View destination review

05/08/2010

After encountering the inevitable school holiday mass exodus at Gatwick early on a Sunday morning, we arrived promptly at the altogether more palatable environs of Agadir. Agadir is a good choice for a sun and sea destination as it is warm yet tempered by the Atlantic sea breeze, perfect for a family holiday. Such benefits bring the Marrakechis to Agadir at this time of year, (helped greatly by a new motorway linking the two cities in only 2hrs 30mins), thus escaping the heat of Marrakech in summer.

Easyjet fly direct into Agadir and the Sofitel Hotel offers a gentle introduction to Morocco for a few days before moving onto something a little more extravagant, perhaps. Only 1 hour from Agadir, Taroudant is easily reached and you really feel away from the traditional European haunts in earnest. This is what I really loved about Morocco overall, that enjoyment of sensory overload that a long or mid haul holiday brings, creating new feelings and experiences at every turn, yet we were only a 3 hour flight from home!  

Taroudant is often called the "Grandmother of Marrakech" because it is a scaled down, slowed down town that resembles Marrakech with its surrounding ramparts. The Dar Zitoune is on the edge of the city as is the highly recommended, exclusive Gazelle d'Or , within easy reach of the laid back medina (in comparison to the buzz of Fes or Marrakech) and is an oasis hidden behind a rather humble facade. Once you enter the building there is a wonderful Berber dome roof in the reception and you amble into the lush gardens to relax and unwind with excellent food, service and a large pool.

Monaime the Manager is a charming chap who we have known since the opening in 2005 and we enjoyed a wonderful dinner as the sun set. He even invited us to a Moroccan wedding that very night in the town. We had to politely decline as we were working early the next morning of course! To experience the true Morocco, excursions can be arranged into the Atlas Mountains; however there is some hiking involved so it is better suited to those who enjoy trekking.

We proceed up to Essaouira, encountering wonderful coastline along the road that hugs the Atlantic shore and bustling market towns en route, where our driver would stop for mint tea on the side of the road and our guide would recount old stories. These moments not pencilled into your itinerary are the ones that always stick the firmest in the mind it seems. I had always been fascinated by Essaouira firstly because of Orson Welles’ wonderful Othello filmed here back in the early 50's and also because it has all the vowels in its name, those Portuguese eh! Essaouira has a long stretch of sandy beach, but this place is known by all Moroccans as the Windy City, which has made it firm favourite in the world surfing calendar.  This wind is most welcome in the summer from the terrace of the L'Heure Bleue Palais Hotel which remains the top place to stay in town.

The service at the L'Heure Bleue is wonderful, the rooms well equipped and the hotel centres around a wonderful internal courtyard. The Portuguese influence is no better preserved than on the promenade where local fisherman offer you the catch of the day in simple restaurants. You pick your fish and they grill it for you simply with a tangy Moroccan salad bursting with tomatoes and coriander, bread and a slice or two of lemon. It didn’t feel a million miles from being in the Ribeira in Oporto as we tucked into some of the freshest sardines you could hope to eat. Essaouira will be without doubt a highlight to any Moroccan itinerary; it’s the best coastal choice, it’s the compact, organised, genuinely Moroccan medina, the friendly local people and the excellent seafood.

So on we went with our new driver as we embarked on the next phase of our grand tour in his air-conditioned 4x4 which was most enjoyed as temperatures tipped the scales in Marrakech! Having never been to Morocco before, Marrakech was always going to be a real highlight and it didn’t disappoint. There is so much to see and do in Marrakech you can’t fit it all in to a short stay, but I would highly recommend one of our expert English speaking guides to bring that famous medina to life for you. The guide really helped us as we uncovered wonderful spice markets, and of course Kirker's hand-picked collection of Riads in the heart of the medina. The Riads are all very attractive. You would think I would have to say that, but we saw plenty of others and I can see why we feature the ones we do. They are small, charming authentic Riads offering something for all tastes, with excellent food and hospitality. Particular favourites of mine were the beautifully renovated Kniza, full of creature comforts and stunning Islamic style. The property has been in the same family for years and Monsieur Bouskri's warm smile as he brings you wonderful meze plates for a light lunch is indeed a most welcome sight after a full days sightseeing. And for something a little more authentic, the Riad Noga is a charmingly restored Riad. For something larger, look no further than the institution that is La Mamounia. It has been stunningly renovated under the eagle eye of French designer Jacques Garcia (Danieli in Venice, Metropole in Monte Carlo) and is everything it should be, stylish, inherently Moroccan, and stunningly crafted. However my favourite hotel was the Villa Des Orangers where we stayed. It oozes class and style; I was imagining opening a hotel myself on the way to the desert and copying all their ideas! An excellent spa, only 27 rooms in a group of 4 interconnecting Riad buildings with a choice of pools.


Morocco - The Desert Run


View destination review

20/08/2010

Leaving Marrakech (and 45 degree heat) for a more Berber view on life as we head towards the Atlas Mountains and beyond. First stop – the Kasbah Bab Ouirka, set on a plateau above the Ourika valley. Managed by Steven, an Englishman enamoured by Morocco many moons ago, it is a perfect spot for those wanting some time to reflect on life after souks. Of course, that wasn’t to be, as we had a desert to see……but not before a detour to visit the Kasbah Tamadot, coincidentally at lunchtime. Sir Richard Branson’s Moroccan Retreat is everything you would expect and more. A very unpretentious place with exceptionally friendly service from the staff, the majority of which are from the nearby villages of Asni and Imlil.

Onwards to the Tizi-n-Tichka pass, an amazing drive over the High Atlas mountains towards Ouarzazate. Renowned as the centre of the Moroccan film industry (both Moroccan and international films are made here), it is the first of three possible choices for a (much needed) overnight stay on the way to the sand dunes at Merzouga. Passing through the towns of Ouarzazate and Skoura (choices one and two), the terrain takes a turn from mountain brushland to a parched wasteland as we start to wind down the  self proclaimed “road of 1000 Kasbah’s”, a small part of the changing scenery that leads through abandoned Berber villages with the occasional and very unexpected view of a lush oasis of palm trees and rose bushes – the area is also famed for the rose festival that occurs in May with the harvest for mass rose water production. Eventually this road will wind into Boumalne Dades (welcome to choice three), and a stop for the night at the Xaluca Boumalne Dades.

The following morning finds us on the road again with the Sahara (practically) in sight. First a bit more terrain spotting. The beautiful Dades Gorge is about an hours drive along the road, and viewed spectacularly from above. There is the added joy that either this is a very serenely driven route, or Moroccans are not in the habit of littering such hairpin roads with white crosses…………another 90 minutes on brings the market town of Tinerhir and the gateway to the Todra Gorge. Winding towards the bottom of the gorge passing through palmeraies more spectacular than those found in Marrakech (the gorge itself quite rightly a magnet for climbers).

Leaving Todra Gorge, tagine-ed up, marks the final drive through dry, salted land to the “patch” of the Sahara joined to Merzuga. 18 km of sand dunes reaching 250 m, to be exact in its “patchness”. Escaping the mind games of the camels that have taken us to view the sunset, another mint tea is waiting in the bivouac nearby. Hidden by the dunes, the tent sits with full cookery team waiting. Unfortunately we only get a very lovely version of afternoon tea before begrudgingly heading to stay in Erfound. The drive from Erfoud to Fez, the last of the epic drives, winds over the lower Atlas to the beautifully nicknamed “Switzerland of Morocco”….otherwise known as the Ifrane Valley. After days spent heading increasingly into scorched land it is a strange sight to see forests of cedar trees and skiing lodges. But there you go. Bring on the return to the imperial cities, and Fez – with the largest medina in the world and an all together more authentic experience. The last night in Morocco is spent in the lovely Riad Maison Bleue, the more informal sister to the Maison Bleue, and a fine ending to a fine trip. Or maybe that was the complimentary Kirker Moroccan wine. I guess some things are destined to remain a mystery.


Moscow - Vladimir and St. Petersburg, An Ex-Soviet Odyssey...


View destination review

20/03/2009

Domodedovo Airport, on a grey and slightly damp November afternoon…….after waiting to see if any bags would fall down the unexplained 1 ft gap in the luggage reclaim belt, it was off to the capital where the shadow of Lenin still looms.  

Moscow is a sprawling metropolis, with the main points of interest unsurprisingly centred round the Kremlin and Red Square. Once the stage of revolution it is now an example of how, slowly but surely, Russia is embracing consumerism with the presence of the GUM department store (now with things to buy in it) opposite Lenin’s Tomb. This is also evident in the closure of many of the old flea markets where once mementos of the communist era could be snapped up. There now lies in its wake a generation of t-shirt shops and Russian dolls. No spy cameras here then…..  

There is still a brooding presence of the old soviet block here, as the capital was moved back from St Petersburg following the Russian revolution. The austere architecture gives contrast and grandeur to the more impressive sights such as St. Basils Cathedral, found a few steps from the walls of the Kremlin.  

The Russians are still semi – professional smokers, with the question of any kind of ban met by a raised eyebrow, giving indoor spaces that special tinted glow, although admittedly this won’t be appreciated by all. As won’t the strange Moscow custom of “Face Control”, a dubious method employed to ensure your establishment is only frequented by the beautiful, stylish and rich (in appearance at least).  

A hidden highlight of Moscow is the Metro system. For someone (that being me, reader) who balks at the idea of going into the Victorian masterpiece that is the London Underground (apologies for those not lucky enough to have such a technological marvel on their doorsteps), the Moscow system is one of wonder. Many of the stations have original frescos; all are marble showing the best socialist life had to offer. Just don't expect anyone to really know where they go, but that is another story.  

But it was time to raise a farewell vodka to the capital, and head east to Vladimir, the largest of the Golden Ring towns. The Golden Ring is a series of towns around Moscow that played an important part in the formation of the Russian Orthodox Church. Cue many churches within these provincial towns that still struggle within the confines of Soviet housing. Vladimir houses, in a bizarre and highly unexpected fashion, are home to some of the few remaining frescos by Andrei Rublev, the medieval icon painter. Something to prove that the abolition of religion during the communist regime was not completely barbaric.  

Onwards and north-westwards (?) to St. Petersburg by sleeper train. Another random step back in time to take you to a rapid step forwards into a more European Russia. A snow storm greeted us on an early morning arrival, making the short drive to the hotel Astoria all you could wish for on a first time visit to the former capital. Whereas Moscow has kept the architectural face of the communist era simmering away (if architecture can simmer), St. Petersburg has the feel of a city with a slightly more “da” attitude to tourism. Never again will the concept of the picture menu be so heartily received.

A much more compact city than Moscow, with most sights within walking distance of the lovely Nevsky Prospect, the main shopping / eating / drinking drag, as indeed are all the Kirker hotels. From the fine art collection at the Hermitage (just don't ask where it came from), to the Church of our Saviour on the Spilled Blood (possibly the most ornate way to mark the spot of a fallen Emperor), St. Petersburg has Tzar grandeur oozing out of every pore, (see above comment about what architecture possibly can and cannot do…..).

On departure there was just enough time for one more run in with an “enterprising” taxi driver. Whoever said free and open trade was a bad thing.


Peloponnese


View destination review

25/07/2010

Tucked away in an unspoilt corner of the south-west Peloponnese is the beautiful resort of Costa Navarino. The location is everything you would expect (and more) from authentic Greece; olive groves as far as the eye can see, pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and local tavernas where locals wile away the afternoon sipping strong coffee and playing backgammon.  

My short & sweet weekend was spent at the Romanos Hotel, a recent addition to the Starwood Hotel Group (May 2010), which is the perfect getaway for peace and tranquillity. Arriving at 22:00 my warm welcome was accompanied with a cool towel and chilled mango juice, whilst my luggage was whisked off by golf buggy to my room, leaving me to check-in. On spotting the private plunge-pool and day-bed on my private terrace, I made a mental note of where I would be spending the following afternoon!  

The property adjoins the Westin, another new 5* property sharing exceptional leisure facilities (‘Navarino Outdoors’ located on-site, offers countless hiking, bike and nature trails), a children’s club and many rooms and suites with their own private pools. Whilst some of my party chose to take mountain bikes along Voidokilia beach and up in to the surrounding hills, I opted out, to do some spa ‘research’. The Anazoe Spa menu is quite something and it was no easy feat selecting which practice of massage I would decide on! To complement the treatments there are mineral pools, relaxation lounges and the ‘Heat Experience Water Ritual’, which take my word for, would be perfection after an afternoon of golf or Nordic walking!  

My last evening was spent enjoying dinner at Eleon (one the hotels’ 7 restaurants), where we were treated to our own personal chef. A Mezze platter was followed by barbecued veal steaks and lobster tails all washed down with a customary Ouzo and crisp white wine. A perfect end to a perfect weekend.  

Either hotel would make an ideal twin-centre with Athens or even a 3-centre, combining Nafplion en-route. The beauty of this property is that you can do as much (or as little!) as you wish, all whilst enjoying a true flavour of untouched Greece. (For those looking for more than just a resort hotel, trips to the nearby Byzantine town of Pylos and the ancient site of Olympia can be arranged.) As the cheerful check-out staff wished me a pleasant journey home and “hoped to see me again soon”……..I was thinking exactly the same thing.


St. Petersburg & Moscow


View destination review

19/07/2010

19 July 2010

This morning I flew out to St. Petersburg. The flight was easy and BA, as always, were very good. Terminal 5 at Heathrow was great and now that the initial problems are sorted it was a very easy experience. St. Petersburg airport is much smaller than I expected, a bit reminiscent of Pisa airport and after clearing passport control (which took 15 minutes), I was with my driver and English speaking Kirker guide. We went straight to Pushkin and the Catherine Palace, where I was very eager to see the famous Amber room. It is here that I got my first experience of the Russian concept of "nothing is impossible". As we arrived at the entrance to the Palace the security guard said that the exhibition was closing and that we would not be able to go inside. My Kirker guide told me to wait and went off to "speak to somebody she knew" and low and behold she came back in 2 minutes and took me round to a little side door and we were in!!! The Catherine Palace is amazing; it has so much to see and the famous Amber rooms are a wonderful jewel in the crown. My first day in St. Petersburg was topped off by a nice meal on a roof-top restaurant looking over Kazansky Cathedral and the Nevsky Prospekt.


The Amber Room

20 July 2010

Up early this morning with a full day of sightseeing ahead. Maria, my Kirker guide for the day, met me at 9:30 and we began our whistle stop tour of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg, built by Peter the Great, has the feel more of Renaissance Italy than Russia. It has many canals and lots of very attractive buildings. We started off with the fantastic St. Isaac's Cathedral; for those that can make it up the steps to the top I would definitely recommend it as the views are breathtaking. From the top you get a panoramic view of the whole of central St. Petersburg and as such it is a great place to start. From here we went to the Church on Spilled Blood (via the Mariinsky and Peter and Paul Fortress). The Church on Spilled Blood is exactly what you expect from Russian architecture, and it is hard to imagine that during Soviet times it was used merely as a storage place. We then went to the Hermitage. Due to my onward train I only had 2 hours in this amazing museum, which was only enough to scratch the surface, but I have to say I have never been anywhere quite like it! It is true to say that you could come to St. Petersburg for a week and base the whole trip around the Hermitage and still have more to see. Not only is it an amazing gallery but it is also the former Winter Palace and the location of the history changing October Revolution. The collection of art is stunning and too vast to try and list, but for me in my brief time there the highlights were La Danse by Matisse and the Rembrandt room. After the sightseeing tour I went to the station to catch my train to Moscow, the new high speed Sapsan. The train was very comfortable and as a new train it was very clean. The service on board was fantastic and I particularly liked the Russian military music that they play on the platform before each trains departure and arrival.   On arrival in Moscow I was met again by a driver and English speaking Kirker assistant and taken to my hotel, pretty exhausted by now after a busy day.  

21 July 2010

Moscow is real mixture and a complete contrast to the low rise and attractive looking St. Petersburg. Restyled by Stalin to have an oppressive and sinister feel there is a great contrast between the old and the new. This morning we went out to the Novodevichy Convent and Cemetery. The state cemetery was one of the highlights of my whole trip, from Chekhov to Yeltsin, every great and not so great (depending on your stand point on history and the arts) Russian since the start of soviet times is buried here, all except the leaders of the party (Stalin et al) who are buried in Red Square. The cemetery allows you to walk amongst the people that have shaped Russian history and culture and offers you an insight into the mind set of the Soviet regime that allowed nuclear scientists and military generals the chance to lay to rest next to poets and playwrights. After the Novodevichy we went to Moscow’s most famous tourist destination, the Kremlin and Red Square. The history of this landmark dates back to the Tsars but it is the communist era that it is most famous for and along with Red Square and the iconic St. Basil's Cathedral it is a must see for all visitors. 

22 July 2010

Today was my last day and the end to my express trip to Russia! I can't wait to go back.


The Amalfi Coast


View destination review

07/10/2010

I had only been lucky enough to venture to Italy twice before, once as a student to sample the delights of Northern Italy very briefly - renting a very pretty artists studio in Verona and then to experience the unrelenting romance of Venice.  

Upon being invited to embark on a week on the Amalfi Coast with Dominic and Kathryn to see all of the wonderful hotels Kirker has to offer, I was itching to see more of the country first hand.  

After experiencing British Airways Club Europe on our flight out, I can assure you it really is the way to kick-off any special occasion - I highly recommend it. Dominic and I prayed for a late arrival into Naples so we could stay on board for longer, maybe we could have done a few circuits around the Alps, but alas it was to no avail and we landed on time.

The windy streets of Naples Old Town are as wide as a Fiat Punto; our driver expertly negotiated these without the bat of an eyelid. There is a real cut and thrust to the city, people are genuine and warm with a million stories to tell, fresh seafood is in abundance, boats set sail to everywhere as far as Africa, and all this set in the crescent of a bay under the imperious shadow of Vesuvius.  

I look forward to going back to Naples again, all the Kirker hotels were charming places, the views from a Deluxe Room at the Parker’s is one top tip I will share with you, but  the pool at the San Francisco al Monte comes a close second.  

On the following day, which happened to be my birthday, we had to dash on to our next port of call, Ischia. Not as famed as Capri, Ischia is a working island, and therefore boats to and from Naples are much more frequent than to Capri and run well into the evening. The island is greener and wilder than Capri, great for walkers if you can drag yourself away from your hotel. We stayed at the Mezzatorre which is a sumptuous retreat, it has views from its promontory position to the Neopolitan mainland and offers some cracking value compared to its peers over on Capri. We also popped in and said hello to Barry and Lucy who were co-ordinating our popular Ischia & Bay of Naples Music Festival from the Hotel San Montano. Perched high up it has great views and I could see steam rising invitingly off the pool, I saw Dom’s face itching to get in, but we had work to do and ventured forth to Capri.  

I fell in love with Capri to tell you the truth. For me the Capri Palace is the number one hotel on the Amalfi Coast. It’s a matter of opinion of course, but I just think it has great style, artwork, and atmosphere. You wouldn’t expect a hotel so white to feel so homely, but it is and it’s an unforgettable experience to stay there. Before visiting Capri I wondered what there was to do on an island so small apart from sunbathe, but I was corrected once again, by its natural beauty, the 400 metre drop views from the bathrooms and the infinity pool of the Relais and Cheateaux Caesar Augustus taking my breath away. There is so much peace to be found on the island if you walk just a few roads away from the bustle of Capri Town Square . I can see why so many Roman rulers decided to simply govern from Capri and never return. It is a simply beautiful place and highly I recommend walking down the old Via Tragara (perhaps staying in the Casa Morgano or the Punta Tragara which are both excellent hotels) all the way down to the family run Da Luigi’s restaurant with views to the Faraglioni Rocks and sea bathing platforms. A little piece of paradise.

After Capri, we were back on the mainland and proceeded to Sorrento. Probably the most popular holiday destination on the Amalfi coast, I was expecting it to be a lot bigger. But it still retains a very small town feel (you can still get the best wood-fire baked pizza in the world for 5-6 Euros here), The Excelsior Vittoria is the “grand dame” right off Piazza Tasso, but hot on its heels is the Bellevue Syrene which has come back into our brochure with excellent renovation, beautiful bedrooms and a new addition of two Club lounges which invite guests to enjoy all day snacks and drinks either indoors or in fine weather, within the sumptuous gardens.  For something a little bit different, head to the Maison la Minervetta. The husband and wife team who run the hotel have really created something special here, with innovative room designs (all 12 rooms are different), thoughtful choices of colour and art and a genuine feeling of home.  

I  must say thank you to Kathryn for her unbelievable driving skills while we were on the Amalfi Coast. The coast road from Sorrento onward to Positano is world famous, with that combination of unerring beauty of the green mountainous terrain, set against the azure blue calm sea beneath you. When you first see Positano, your heart races on slightly faster than your thoughts and confirms that even manipulated photography cannot do it justice; a semi-circular green valley is cut out and goes up from the sea some 200 metres and houses look like they are built upon each other. Because of the geographical curvature of the valley, so many of our hand-picked hotels have quite breathtaking sea views. I really loved the Poseidon, the concierge there, Angelo, is a charming chap who has been there for many years, and will make anyone feel most welcome and the rooms are finished nicely. The Sirenuse goes straight into that hallowed top category of 5 Star Deluxe with no dalliance for query and if you want to be right by sea level and the famed sea front restaurant of Chez Blacks at its heart, the Covo dei Saraceni has welcomed Kirker guests for years, and is also a first class property.   

With so much to see, I was really beginning to appreciate what has brought travellers to the Costiera Amalfitana for so many years. The intense natural beauty combined with that cliff-dominated coastline was mesmerising. We dropped into Amalfi, where we have some beautiful properties. We stayed in the newly opened NH Luxury Hotel, the Grand Il Convento, which was formerly the famous “Cappuccini”. This former grand monastery has stunning views over the town of Amalfi (especially on the terrace at breakfast) and wandering through the short cuts away from the cliff road, as advised by the helpful concierge, we were into town within 10 minutes walk along the sea front. After a long day, we settled for a local, recommended restaurant next to the majestic St Andrews Church on the Piazza Duomo, to sample some beautiful pasta and seafood dishes. Nestled high above the town of Amalfi, further along the coastal road towards Salerno, is that haven for many artists and dreamers for many a year, Ravello. A small village which is positioned some 400 metres above sea level and reminded me instantly of being at the Chevre d’Or in Eze, especially with the beautiful gardens gracing the town similar to those in Eze. In terms of Kirker hotels, I can safely say we have the very finest to offer and a personal favourite was the Caruso. I found all rooms there to be excellent from the lowest to the highest category, in fact some of my favourite rooms were facing the vast mountain valleys on the other side to the sea.  

After Ravello, we headed into the deep south of Italy and some of the less explored regions of Basilicata just north of Calabria. Past Salerno on the A5 the towns suddenly shrink in size and the countryside takes over. We stayed in Maratea in the Locanda le Donne Monache, located in the centre of the hill-top village, so quite and peaceful and tremendously authentic. The huge statue of “Christ the Redeemer” on top of Mount Blaise reminiscent of the one in Rio de Janeiro, his arms welcomingly aloft,  showing the deep religious nature of the deep south of Italy. This is an area which has too long been overlooked in terms international tourism and has suffered huge emigration to America in the early 20th century as agricultural production centralised and rural areas such as this declined.   

Maratea has a quaint port area with some small restaurants and bars at sea level (5 minutes drive). There are some excellent public beaches just to the east of the port in Fiumicello, which is where the Hotel Santavenere is located. A resort hotel set in vast grounds, it has tennis courts, large outdoor pools and spa, it has a relaxed feel and genuine sea views amongst a peaceful atmosphere. You feel somewhat like the cat that got the cream just knowing of it, it’s nothing too fancy or formal, just a place for genuine relaxation just as the Hollywood stars did back in the 1950’s when they first came to the Santavenere.  

For anyone in love with the Amalfi Coast and seeking a two-centre, I would really recommend Maratea in a combination or even as a single centre for the more adventurous. By train from Naples, you can get down to Capri (20 minutes from Maratea, transfers easily arranged through Kirker) in little more than 2 hours on the mainline down to Reggio and Sicily. Unfortunately, we had limited time we headed back north to Santa Maria di Castellabate. Similar to Maratea, the town of Castellabate is a hill-top UNESCO World Heritage site and has a small port area adjacent to where the historical residence of Palazzo Belmonte is located. We had an excellent lunch in the sun of the most delicate mozzarella, sweetest tomatoes, freshest basil and finest olive oil, local delights that I was definitely going to miss! The property is owned by the 13th Prince the Principe di Belmonte and has been very popular with Kirker clients and I can see why. The area is again unspoilt and the Palazzo itself has some excellent accommodation and also has the golden sandy beaches which are private for guest use.  

We were all very impressed with Castellebate and Maratea and would be delighted to offer you any further information. I was not familiar first hand with the area apart from what I had read, and I really loved the Amalfi Coast especially Naples and Capri. The contrast between one of the biggest Italian cities and one of the most exclusive islands in Europe, separated only by a 35 minute catamaran journey is extraordinary. Of course there are many cultural treats with Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius so close by. In-land from Positano and Sorrento, there are some two and three Michelin starred restaurants we would be more than happy to recommend to you.    

Back at Naples airport, you can only have the same feeling as ever other traveller, “why can’t we stay another week?” Alas, it was not to be, but I look forward to visiting this stunning area in the near future, it was truly spectacular.  


The Italian Lakes


View destination review

03/09/2010

Much praise has been heaped upon Italy’s man-made magnificence - and justifiably so!  Siena, Florence, Venice and Rome are all wonderful destinations in their own right and they were not built in a day, however, its lakes have been formed over many thousands of years and have long been a place of inspiration, exploration and relaxation.  

Situated in the far north, in the shadow of the Alps, the lakes are a series of vastly different stretches of azure brilliance. Described as the tears of the mountains, it is not hard to see how the lakes have inspired and soothed in equal measures.  

My journey started in the far North West at the scenic Lake Orta, a mere 50 minutes from Milan Malpensa airport.  Because of its close proximity to the airport, it serves as an ideal location for both a short break (by private transfer), or a base to explore further a field (with car hire). What greets you on arrival is Italian simplicity; small, picturesque villages nestled gently around a sea of tranquillity. If peace and pretty scenery away from the populace is what you desire, then look no further. A shining example of this is the pretty town of Orta San Giulio; as gentle and ornate a town as you would hope to find on such a handsome lake.  

Heading east is the nearby lake of Maggiore, a much larger and more dramatic lake. Its immediate neighbours are the panoramic mountains and green rolling hills making it a rambler’s paradise. Maggiore may be large but busy it is not. It perhaps, does not have the reputation of the other lakes, but do not let this detract from a lake that offers a very rare combination – drama and serenity. Perfectly situated, Pallanza is a fine example of how diverse this lake can be. It lies a short boat journey from the Borromees Islands, which in themselves offer beautiful botanical gardens.  

Further east is arguably the most spectacular lake of them all – Lake Como. The mountain backdrop is like no other and is picture postcard material. The remarkable town of Bellagio is an absolute must to watch the sun drop away whilst you sup on your first Spritz Campari.  Lake Como also offers more variety than others. The town of Como itself provides therapy for shop-a-holics as well as a cable car that takes you up the mountain face. It also has the direct train service to Milan for real fashionistas. To visit more of the lake, merely jump aboard the frequent water taxis and let them transport to other villages desperate to be explored.  

Continuing east is the tiny lake of Iseo. Best visited with car hire, Iseo is the lake for those who wish to explore, whilst getting away from the maddening crowds. Being such a small lake, you may wish of course to do nothing but relax, take in the views, play a round of golf or just breathe in the fresh air.  

Our final lake, Garda, is a huge lake and again offers its visitor plenty of activities to keep the most discerning client happy. What it lacks in mountain scenery, it makes up for in ever-changing bursts of water-colour heaven. Sunrise and sunset on the lake provide glorious visual showcases of what the lake has to offer. Its most renowned location is the town of Sirmione, an impossibly pretty peninsular jutting out into the south of the lake. At its tip are the ruins of an old Roman villa providing staggering views as far as the eye can see. Garda does have a more tranquil side than the bustle of Sirmione and with car hire, the town of Garda itself provided a more placid approach to life. Day trips from the lake include Verona (accessible by train) and the Valpolicella area to sample some of Italy’s best wines.  Once you have sampled the vivid sunset over a plate of prosciutto and a large glass of wine you have begun to feel the effect of what the Italian Lakes have to offer.


Venice Simplon - Orient-Express


View destination review

13/04/2009

Checking out of the Hotel Cipriani would ordinarily be a deflating experience but during my private water taxi journey to Venice Santa Lucia station, I was filled with excited anticipation for my journey back to London onboard the Venice Simplon - Orient-Express. Following check-in, a steward wearing an immaculate royal blue uniform greeted me at the entrance to my designated carriage.  Every inch of the train was a step back in time; the beautiful wooden marquetry of the cabins, the Silver Service waiters preparing the dining cars for brunch, the exquisite place settings and the baby grand piano in the bar car.  

The journey started with a glass of champagne followed by a lavish 3-course brunch. I still have daydreams about the dessert - pears poached in hibiscus tea and sweet wine, filled with bitter dark chocolate. The quality of food was quite astounding and standards of which you would expect at any top London restaurant.  Sit back, relax and begin to enjoy the scenery as you journey through northern Italy and Austria.  The afternoon can be spent reading, chatting with new friends over coffee or simply taking in the views.  One of my most vivid memories was awaking from my post afternoon tea snooze with a picture-perfect view of snow capped mountains from my window.  Truly breathtaking.  

Dressing for dinner is an excuse to go to town.  Over-dressing is impossible onboard the Orient Express.  Ladies and gentleman wearing evening dress fill the bar car, enjoying the piano music and an aperitif before dinner.  Don’t hesitate to pack the tuxedo that only comes out a few times a year, or your feather boa and pearls.  Looking and feeling the part is all part of the experience. Dinner started with steamed sea bass, followed by roast saddle of lamb and the favourite bit (I think there’s a pattern forming here!)…………a chestnut charlotte accompanied with mandarin flavoured custard.  I certainly slept very soundly after such a feast.  

During dinner, the lighting in your cabin is dimmed and the bank seating is converted in to a very inviting bed; slippers and an embroidered dressing gown are provided.  For extra space, consider opting for a ‘cabin suite’, which will provide far more space and added comfort.  Breakfast was served in my cabin upon arrival in to Paris.  Here the train stops to allow you enough time to take in a little fresh air and to stretch your legs.  Once in Calais we were transported by luxury coach to Dover, where we met the British Pullman for the final leg of our journey.  Just when I was contemplating my crash diet for the following week, brunch was served – broiled lobster followed by a caramelised apple tart.  By the time the train arrived in to London Victoria, the foodie in me was protesting at the fact that we had to disembark!  My time onboard the Orient Express was a truly magical experience – but I was soon jostled back in to reality, when having to battle with the commuters for my journey back to South West London!  Wondering how to celebrate a pending anniversary or special birthday – think no further!  The trip is worth every penny and will leave you with life-long memories. 


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