In Prague, coffee houses still hum with artistic spirit. Narodni Kavarna café leaves pencils and paper on tables, seeming to think it likely that drinkers would be struck by literary inspiration. This might be so - many cafés make a great show of having once been the haunt of Václav Havel or other writers. Café Louvre, once frequented by Kafka and Einstein, serves hearty schnitzel and potato salad under high ceilings and soft light. And for sheer opulence, Café Imperial glitters with tiled walls and mosaic ceilings, a fin-de-siècle treasure.