I was recently lucky enough to enjoy two nights on the Dolce Vita Orient Express. This is a relatively new luxury train that is making waves in the design world, and to say I was keen to try this journey would be an understatement. The names ‘Dolce Vita’ and Orient Express’ may be familiar, but the combined concept is brand new. It began with the renovation of some classic Trenitalia carriages into a unique travel offering that combines the experience of a cruise, an old-fashioned train journey, and a chance to sample some of Italy’s finest destinations while sitting back and watching the countryside flit by. This is the first Italian-made luxury train to use the Italian rail network. And it might be the only time you’re glad you’re on the slow network- because the last thing you want to do on this journey is rush.
We started in Rome, on a beautiful October afternoon. Our hotel for the night prior to boarding the train was the Hotel La Minerva. The hotel is allied to the Dolce Vita train and has been lovingly refurbished over the last couple of years into an amazing example of contemporary Art Deco. The location could not be better; tucked behind the Pantheon, 20 minutes’ walk to the Colosseum and 15 minutes’ walk to the Spanish Steps. To say you are in the heart of the historic city would be to put it mildly.
An early start saw us out at 06:35 the following morning (the train needs to operate in conjunction with all other trains on the network). We were whisked to Rome’s Ostiense station and welcomed into the lounge to enjoy a cappuccino with the unexpected addition of a jazz trio. The Dolce Vita lounge is completely in keeping with the design of the train, with all the practicalities one would need for a pre journey drink and breakfast.
Once onboard, we met our conductor (the ever present and extremely helpful Daryl) who escorted us to the cabin and advised us he would only ever be a WhatsApp message away.
So began the journey taking us north to Venice where during the day we enjoyed a surprisingly spacious en-suite cabin set with a sofa, rather than bed, for “daytime” relaxation.
Whereas Rome to Venice by train would normally be a direct service via Florence and Bologna, our route took us through Umbria and along the Adriatic coast. An aperitivo in the bar carriage gave us the chance to meet some of our fellow passengers. Lunch was also served en-route in the dining carriage; a six-course taster menu curated by renowned chef Heinz Beck.
Upon arrival in Venice, we were escorted via water taxi through the Grand Canal to St Mark’s square. Venice was still busy, but as dusk drew in, our private guide took five of us on a walking tour through the backstreets of Venice to the “Scala del Bovolo” - part of a palazzo initially built to joint two buildings. This gave a spectacular view of Venice before we were taken for dinner.
Upon returning to the train, our cabin had been transformed into a very comfortable bedroom. The bar was open for a nightcap, and we settled in for our first night.
On our second day, we headed to Santa Margherita and Portofino on the Ligurian Riviera. Normally from Venice this would mean a trip via Milan – but why take the direct route when you can head south and wake up overlooking the Cinque Terra? The mountains soon became the Mediterranean and after a breakfast of perfectly poached eggs served in our cabin (thank you again Daryl!), we arrived in Santa Margherita Ligure. One of the larger towns on the Ligurian Riviera, from Santa Margherita we took a boat to enjoy the coastline from the sea. An hour later we arrived (via a short detour to San Fruttuoso, an old abbey only accessible by sea or foot) in Portofino.
Having visited Portofino before, I was nervous about the crowds I’d encountered before, but in October the season was slowing down, and we enjoyed a crowd-free walk to the Castello Brown. This has a picture-perfect view of the village and headland and helped us work up an appetite for frutti di mare on the harbour side.
Our final night on the train took us back to Rome. Dinner on board was another six-course extravaganza, with aperitifs and digestifs taken in the bar while gentle live music played in the background (a different singer will join the train on each night).
On our final morning, we had breakfast in the dining carriage as the train continued down the Tuscan Coast with views of Livorno and Porto Ercole. A touching final WhatsApp from Daryl and we were back where we started – the lounge at Rome Ostiense. Time to return to the real world – after that was a last afternoon lingering in the Eternal City with a gelato.
