Choosing the route & Exploring Ljubljana
Following my incredible experience on the VSOE over 12 years ago, I was incredibly thrilled to experience such an iconic journey once more. I knew I wanted to visit somewhere else on this trip, so I opted for Slovenia.
I flew BA direct from Heathrow to Ljubljana and enjoyed 2 nights exploring this beautiful city. I stayed at our Hotel Lesar Angel located round the corner from start of the old town and to the other side were a few characterful wine bars and restaurant as you start the steep climb to the Castle, which is well worth doing and exploring.
The locals are very proud of their capital, and I loved how green the city was, with lots of tree-lined streets, parks and green spaces especially along the river which passes through the historical centre. A good pair of walking shoes are essential, as you may not realise how much walking you end up doing! The city has many museums, cafes and interesting architecture to explore, as well as many Michelin-recommended restaurants.
I went to the restaurant Altroke, and they were most welcoming and even assisted me with pairing my menu choices with a selection of wonderful Slovenian wines from the different regions in the country. Suffice to say I had a wonderful first visit to Slovenia and I am already plotting to return in 2027.
Arrival in Venice: Staying at The Gritti Palace
Ljubljana is currently undergoing major infrastructure developments, and so I booked a shuttle service which took 3 hours and made everything run smoothly. After arriving in Venice, I was greeted at the airport and escorted to our very own private water taxi – what an exhilarating welcome! Cruising down the Lagoon and Grand Canal to arrive at the private landing of the Gritti Palace was truly incredible.
Where does one begin to describe just how incredible the Gritti Hotel is?! Set in a former noble residence on Venice's Grand Canal, the hotel has views of Santa Maria delle Salute Church and Guggenheim Museum. We were given such a warm welcome and our room was beautifully appointed, with a very high level of service. I can highly recommend that all Kirker clients consider one of the limited Full Grand Canal View rooms, which give you a wonderful view of Venice. The Hotel’s Terrace is also not to be missed. Split into two parts, their main restaurant and bar, it is a very elegant setup and a perfect way to soak up the atmosphere, whilst enjoying a coffee, lunch or something stronger! I strongly recommend to pre-book as it was very popular with locals.
Aboard the VSOE
The morning of the VSOE, I allowed extra time for breakfast on the terrace, enjoying the beautiful menu and views for one final time. I was then met by our Private Water Taxi, and we took a different route to Santa Lucia station, allowing us to see more of Venice along the way. There’s no denying that there’s something very romantic about travelling from Venice to Paris or in reverse, two of the world’s most iconic places. Our journey began with a glass of champagne as we departed Venice, with an incredible back drop of the mainland and the Dolomites.
There was a fair amount of snow already on the peaks. For me, the most spectacular part of the journey was after Verona, as we made our way to Austria via the famous and truly breathtaking Brenner’s Pass. I was extremely lucky to have seen crisp blue skies and the most beautiful autumnal colours along the route. As we got closer to Austria the temperature dropped and the snow topped peaks glistened in the mid-afternoon sunshine.
A Tour of the Train
When we stopped at Brenner’s on the border, I asked permission to get a tour of the train. One thing I learned was that the VSOE changes its locomotive when entering a new country.
The historic twin cabin is setup as a sitting room by day and has two beds (upper and lower berth) very in keeping with the spirit of the 1920. Only suites have a shower facility for the rest of us we have a classic wash basin. The oldest carriage is over 100 years old and although has undergone extensive restoration- it still retains its charm. Former guests include Agatha Christie more recent guests include Wes Anderson.
Dinner & The Dresscode
Overdressing is encouraged, I can’t believe how very elegant everyone appeared for dinner.
This is the highlight of the culinary experience onboard and the ambience felt elevated in comparison. The setting of the bar car makes for a wonderful evening, with a pianist playing and the cocktails flowing! The atmosphere felt social and inviting and I met many guests from around the world – even playing Monopoly (The Belmond version) with other guests!
The food & wine on board
The cuisine offered was a perfect balance of high-end dining with very attentive and friendly service. You will currently receive the Sommelier selection of wines from the regions of VSOE destinations, and you’re invited to upgrade from their Premium Wine Cellar (supplements apply
This is an experience everyone must add to their Wishlist.
