Tucked into northern Spain, the Basque Country is a region unlike any other. It’s a land of traditions and innovation, rocky coastlines and vineyards, medieval towns and contemporary architecture. Often celebrated as one of the world’s gastronomic capitals, the Basque Country is home to some of the world’s most acclaimed chefs, Michelin-starred restaurants, and an unmatched pintxos culture. Beyond the plate, it’s also a region committed to sustainability, with cities like Vitoria-Gasteiz earning the title of European Green Capital for their environmental efforts and quality of urban life.
Getaria
Our adventure began in Getaria, a charming fishing village famous for its grilled seafood and scenic harbour, but also for the revolutionary couturier: Cristóbal Balenciaga. Perched on a hill overlooking the town and coastline, the Balenciaga Museum is a modern tribute to the fashion designer, showcasing decades of his elegant and groundbreaking avant-garde fashion. Strolling past the statue of Elkano and through the cobbled streets, past the quaint shops and the magnificent Church of San Salvador, you reach the charming harbour, where fishing boats bob gently against the backdrop of the sea and aroma of grilled fish and seafood waft through the air.
A short drive inland brings you to the vineyards of the family-run Bodega Katxiña Txakolina. Famed for producing the crisp, mildly effervescent, and refreshing Txakoli white wine, it pairs perfectly with the traditional Basque dishes and pintxos offered across the region. Our guided visit of the estate revealed the passion behind the wine-making process and the establishment of the family business. We enjoyed an incredible wine-tasting experience accompanied by delicious amuse-bouche, with my personal favourite being Mª Pilar's mushroom croquettes. The visit ended with a gourmet lunch at their multi-award-winning restaurant, with spectacular panoramic views of the countryside surrounding us as we feasted on their lobster salad and, the star of the show, the grilled turbot.
By late afternoon, we arrived in San Sebastián and checked into the Hotel Maria Cristina, the Belle Époque palace that displays its elegance and history and a luxurious base perfect for exploring the city’s cultural and architectural gems.
San Sebastián
The following morning began with a walking tour of San Sebastián, our first stop being the historic Victoria Eugenia Theatre opposite the hotel. We proceeded to the Plaza Gipuzkoa and took in the local life and the fresh produce and seafood at the San Martin Market. Seeing the Buen Pastor Cathedral standing proudly in the city centre, we walked along the La Concha seafront, which blessed us with spectacular views of the bay and its surrounding green landscapes.
We also made a stop at Perfumería Benegas, a local business known for its bespoke scents and its famous Ssirimiri perfume, before heading to the marina and the Old Town, where San Sebastián’s soul truly lives. Here, a pintxos tour introduced us to the region’s beloved flavours — anchovies, tuna belly, wild mushrooms, and more, all served with small slices of fresh homemade bread, paired with Txakoli and a slice of rich San Sebastián cheesecake to end it.
Later in the day, we traded the coastal scenery for the vines with a drive to Elciego in the Rioja region to the stunning Marqués de Riscal estate. Designed by Frank Gehry, architect of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the hotel is a structural work of art that glistens under the Spanish sun; its boldly colourful lines beautifully contrasting the surrounding 19th-century stone cellars and its titanium swirls honouring the region’s wine culture. After a winery tour that explored both tradition and innovation in winemaking, we then dined at one of the restaurants onsite and were graced with a traditional tasting menu, with a contemporary twist, along with the estate’s wines and the Elciego Cathedral beautifully lit in the backdrop.
Laguardia
Before continuing to Bilbao, our morning commenced with a visit to the hilltop town of Laguardia. Surrounded by its medieval walls, its narrow, cobbled lanes lead to centuries-old churches, underground wine caves, and panoramic views of the Rioja landscape. It’s the perfect place to pause and reflect, by breathing in the fresh country air, and feel the deep connection between land, history, and culture.
Continuing north, we stopped to explore Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of the Basque Country. Its beautifully preserved medieval quarter and commitment to sustainability beautifully combines its historical depth with progressive urban renewal. It’s impossible not to be enticed by its maze of alleys, Gothic churches, and leafy parks, where you come to truly admire the city that honours its Basque history, while also looking to the future.
By mid-afternoon, we arrived in Bilbao and checked into the stylish and creative The Artist Hotel, where we were lucky to admire the views of the city and the Guggenheim directly opposite from the wonderful rooftop terrace and bar. That evening we had a remarkable dinner experience at Etxanobe, with a perfectly orchestrated seven-course tasting menu that combines imagination with flavour
Bilbao
We devoted our final day to exploring Bilbao, the city that has transformed itself from an industrial hub into one of the most dynamic cultural centres in Europe. Its riverfront is a testament to urban renewal, with incredible bridges, public art, and vibrant cafes adorning the riverbanks. From the Ribero Market to the Casco Viejo (the Old Town), its historic buildings to the iconic plazas, the city is a lively and energetic hub full of stories to tell. An espresso stop at the Plaza Nueva allowed us to take in la vida bilbaína, where people gather every Sunday to socialise, spend time with family and friends, and even trade collectables like postage stamps and sports cards. Architectural gems like the Bilbao Cathedral and the Teatro Arriaga also contribute to narrating the story of Bilbao’s evolution.
Of course, no visit would be complete without seeing the Guggenheim Museum, Gehry’s masterpiece that placed Bilbao on the global art map. Inside, the museum hosts incredible and cutting-edge contemporary art, while outside, installations like Jeff Koons’ giant floral Puppy and Louise Bourgeois’ imposing Spider invite reflection and admiration.
